Installation
Installation Instructions
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Step 1 – Estimate the Required Quantity of Stone Product
Our products are delivered in two basic forms: 1. Flat pieces, which will be applied to flat surfaces, and 2, corner pieces which are specially designed to wrap around 90 degree corners. Modular stone incorporates interlocking corners and these are included in the flat stone price ie. NO EXTRA COSTS.
- Our flat stone products are sold by the square metre. To determine the required amount of Flat stone, measure the width and height (in metres) of the surface to be covered, and multiply these two figures together to derive the total square meterage amount. For triangular areas, calculate the square meterage by multiplying Width x Height x ½. Be sure to deduct from this total amount any areas such as doors or windows which will not be covered with stone.
- Our corner stone products are sold by the linear metre. Let's say you wanted the left and right corners of a structure to be covered with Corner stones. Each corner contains a total of 3 linear metres so you would need a total of 3 x 2 = 6 metres of corner stones for this project.
Step 2 – Assemble the required tools and supplies.
Tools: You will need the following:-
- Level
- Square
- Tape Measure
- Masonry cutter (diamond blade)
- Brickies Trowel
- Powerful drill with mixing paddle
- Chalk line
- 20 litre bucket (for mortar)
- For the bigger jobs, it pays to hire a good bricksaw if there are a lot of cuts.
- A grout bag will be supplied with each order. This is used to quickly apply mortar to any voids in the work. Certain patterns have overall application of mortar ie Bluestone, Riverstone etc.
Step 3 – Surface Preparation.
Our stone is an "adhered veneer" which requires no footings/foundations or wall ties and is therefore ideal for both interior and exterior applications. Our products can be applied to any structurally sound vertical surface. In all cases where a suggested specification is provided, the suggestion should be considered a general guideline and must be superseded by local code requirements.
Clean, unpainted Masonry. This substrate includes all masonry surfaces such as brick, block, stucco, cement sheets and concrete so long as the surface is clean (ie free of form oil or other release agents) and has not been painted, sealed, or treated in any way. If there is any question about the surface to be covered, please err on the side of caution and assume it does not meet the above criteria. If you are certain that the above conditions apply, the no other surface preparation is required apart from the required waterproofing sealer before application of stonework.
Step 4 – Work area preparation.
The main goal of the installation process is to create the appearance of a single, uniform surface rather than "areas" of similarly sized, coloured, or shaped stones. A bit of planning in the early stages will go a long way toward helping you achieve a high-quality result.
When you receive your stone order, it is a good idea to spread the products out at the job site so that you will have a variety of stone shapes, sizes and colours to mix into your work surface. Laying out small sections on the ground before applying them to the work surface will help you envision how the section will look once it is installed. To achieve the kind of variety and contrast that is the hallmark of a quality installation, you should attempt to use dark stones next to light ones, small stones next to larger ones, heavy textured stones next to smoother ones, and so forth throughout the entire work surface. Corner stones should be installed first at each vertical corner and work towards the centre of the wall. Be sure to stagger joints at every opportunity.
Step 5 – Mortar Preparation.
Mortar is supplied with all Alpine Stone products to ensure that consistent quality is maintained at all levels of the process. Approximately 4.5 litres of rock hard additive is required to be power mixed with the 20kg bags of coloured mortar supplied with the stone. This polymer modified mortar will achieve around 4 square metres per bag when applied to the back of the stone at the required thickness of 3-4mm. Do not trowel the mix onto the wall. Always apply a creamy wet mix directly to the stone, apply to the wall with a firm twisting pressure until holding fast. Rockhard additives will come packaged in a 20 litre container and it is to be used without adding water: i.e this products is a substitute for water. Adding incredible strength, flexibility and durability to your project. Once mixed to a creamy consistency the useable life will exceed 90minutes. Add a small amount of Rockhard to wet the mix if needed.
Step 6 – Stone Application.
If the stone is to be applied over concrete, masonry, or scratch coat in very hot/dry weather conditions, the work surface should be dampened before applying mortar. In addition, each stone should be moistened with water prior to installation. This can be accomplished by using a fine-mist spray, a wet brush, or by dipping the stone into a water bucket. Allow the work surface and the stone to dry for just a few minutes to eliminate excess water.
Apply approximately 3-4 mm of mortar to the back of each stone just prior to setting that stone. This is referred to as "buttering" the stone.
The stone is generally applied from the bottom-up. Starting at the bottom generally allows you to achieve tighter joints.
It is a good idea to begin your work by applying the corners first, since they are slightly less forgiving when it comes to fitting them in. Each corner piece has both long and a short leg and these should be alternated at every other stone.
Once the corner stones are in place, the flat stones may be applied working toward the wall centre. Modular stone pieces have interlocking corners and should be installed first.
You must ensure complete coverage between the mortar and the back surface of the stone. Set each stone by firmly pressing the stone into the mortar with a "wiggling" action. If you see some mortar squeeze out around the stone's edge, you are using the correct pressure. The stone should remain in place when you release it. If not, remove the failed mortar, replace it with fresh mortar, and reapply the stone.
If you are consistently having difficulty getting the stones to stick, consider the following:-
- Is your mortar mix too dry, or too wet? It is generally better for the mortar to be on the "too wet" side than "too dry", but it can't be runny or soupy either.
- Is the mix too sandy? If this is a possibility, try adding additional cement to the mix. Working in cold conditions? Add a litre of dry cement powder to a 10 litre mix mortar.
- Is the work surface flat? Work surface irregularities can create high and low points that enable the stone to rock back and forth. This rocking motion will pop the stones off the work surface. If this may be the problem, consider applying a scratch coat or mortar to the surface and allowing it to dry overnight.
If the mortar gets on to the face of any stone, DO NOT try to wipe it off – the wiping action will smear and possibly stain the stone. Instead, allow the mortar to set up until it is dry and crumbly, and then use a whiskbroom to remove the material.
It is important to keep the mortar thin (about 3-4mm) and consistent across the entire work surface. Apply the stones tightly together, and stagger the joint lines both vertically and horizontally to achieve the most natural look. When installing regular rectangular stones, be sure to keep your joint lines level. You may wish to snap a chalk line every so often to help you with this.
You will probably need to cut a number of stones in order to achieve the best possible fit. The stone can be cut using wide-mouth nippers or a mason's trowel edge. You can also use an angle grinder or any other cutting saw with a diamond blade. You should then cover the edge with mortar to conceal the cut. Turn the cut edge down when applying the stone below eye level, or up when applying the stone above eye level.
Step 7 – Grouting and Joint Finishing
If you require the grout colour to match your stone colour, Alpine Stone can supply you with this product in 20kg bags. Just add water and apply with the plastic mortar bag as if you were icing a cake. Do not add Rockhard additive to this mix…just water.
Once a section has been laid, step back and look for any shallow spots in the joints. Use a grout bag to fill in these areas. Be very careful not to smear the grout onto the stone face. If grout gets onto the face of any stone, DO NOT try to wipe it off – the wiping action will smear and possibly stain the stone. Instead, allow the mortar to set up until it is dry and crumbly, and then use a whiskbroom to remove the material.
Allow sufficient time (anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour depending on weather conditions) for the joints to become firm. Then use a paintbrush, wood stick or metal jointing tool to dress the joints and remove any excess mortar above the desired joint depth. Ensure that the mortar in the joints completely seals the stone edges.
Modular units ie. Ledgestone, Lodular Scist etc need very little lortar at all after laying. The odd vertical joint ot corner may need an application from the grout bag. Use the same bagged colour for final grouting but use plain water to mix small quantities…not Rockhard additive.
Step 8 – Finishing Touches
After dressing the joints, allow the work surface to set up for a few hours. Then use a DRY whiskbroom to clean away any loose mortar and clean the face of the stone. After the mortar has set for at least 24 hours, wash the work surface with a water hose to remove any remaining dust or debris.
Because our products are made of concrete, it will absorb water just like any other concrete surface. Over time, the repeated absorption of water and a freeze/thaw cycle can potentially cause permanent damage to the stone. Since manufactured stone is reserved for use in vertical (wall) applications, water usually doesn't have the chance to sit on the surface long enough to cause a problem. Stone laid at ground level, however, may be at greater risk. A sealer will help to close the pores in the concrete, thereby repelling the water rather than allowing it to be absorbed. Is a sealer an absolute must? Probably not. Is it a good idea? In implementations where standing water could potentially cause a problem, absolutely. So, consider a sealer as a very inexpensive and convenient insurance policy against future damage.
Please note that some sealers are designed to “enhance” the surface appearance of the concrete, while others are essentially invisible. Be sure to test your sealer on a small test portion of our stone to ensure that the final appearance is what you're looking for. We can make specific recommendations on brands, we suggest that you contact your supplier for more information.